Actives & Delivery Systems

Active ingredients are used in cosmetic formulations to maintain or improve the physiology of the skin or hair. They can strengthen the skin barrier and thus the protective function of the skin, as ceramides do, for example, or penetrate further into the skin through the top layer to take on a metabolism-supporting function. The desired effect may be visible on the surface of the skin only later, for example when a whitening active ingredient takes effect. However, for active ingredients to reach their destination and develop their full effect, suitable carrier or delivery systems are often required. In addition to enhanced bioavailability, it is often also a question of improved skin tolerance, as in the case of retinol, or easier incorporation, as in the case of ceramides.

Liposomes are among the best-known and well-established carrier systems. These are small, spherical vesicles that can carry both lipophilic and hydrophilic active substances and make them available in the skin. The main building block of liposomes is phosphatidylcholine, which can be obtained from soy or sunflower, such as the non-hydrogenated BergaSom products.

Other nano-disperse carrier systems, like the third generation of SmartLipids solid lipid nanoparticles, have become increasingly important over the past decade. In contrast to liposomes, they give improved bioavailability of active ingredients in the various skin layers and are highly stable, making them increasingly attractive to formulators and developers of cosmetic formulations. BergaCare SmartLipids can also carry higher concentrations of active ingredients. The focus here is more on the advantages of functional solutions for known and new active ingredients.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are keratolytic active ingredients of either natural or synthetic origin. AHAs are weak organic acids that are used, among other things, to remove the top horny layer of the skin or to smooth the surface of hair follicles. They can be used in combination with other acids and skin care components to create modern skin care concepts.